Road Trip to Utah - Part 7 - 4-Wheelin' and Rock Crawlin'

Our last full day of Mancation dawned just as bright and clear as all the other days. After a leisurely breakfast, we headed to the Moab Adventure Center for the 4-wheeler tour we had reserved. It was pretty darn expensive, but what the heck, we both love going where there's not a crowd and seeing what the mainstream average tourist doesn't. Besides, it's only money! 

Sad to report though, this particular adventure left us disappointed. I've been on a number of 4-wheel drive tours and driven a bunch in my own jeep and sadly, this one ranks at the bottom of the list. The good was that our driver was friendly and we got lucky in that there was nobody else with whom we had to share the tour. Since it was just us, the driver gave us our choice of which tour we wanted to take. We chose the "Back Country" at his suggestion for "awesome scenery and great arches that other people don't know about." He told us it would take a while to get to the off road part, but we had 3 hours so it was no big deal.

Filming a movie shut down the road
Turned out it was a big deal. The 4-wheeler was a converted military Hummer with a top and no sides - and no air conditioning. Mother Nature chose that day for the old sun to shine bright and the temperature to climb. Because of the low gearing, the Hummer couldn't go faster than about 50 MPH and we drove on pavement for 25 long, loud, uncomfortable minutes. Then we came to a dead stop because (one guess here) either another movie was being filmed or the same movie filming we had run into before (see Part 4 here) had the road closed. Evidently movie crews are allowed to shut down any road for however long they want in Utah because we sat there with the hot sun beating down on the metal top for over 20 minutes. We couldn't see what they were filming so we just sat there talking a bit. We paid good money for this and the minutes seemed like hours. Frustrating.

The "4-wheel trail" we drove on
When we were finally allowed to proceed, we drove on the pavement for another 10 minutes and then took a dirt road to the right. Finally! Now we're going to have some fun! Nope. We spent the next hour driving along the same dirt road. There were some interesting things our guide pointed out and there was some beautiful scenery and we never saw anyone else, but the road never got very rough or anywhere near challenging. My stock Ford F150 pickup would have easily driven that road. We eventually came to a wide spot and stopped. The guide said this was a good place to take pictures so we got out and walked around taking a few while he wandered away from us to have a smoke.

Beautiful scenery on the back-country tour
A few minutes later when we returned to the Hummer, he turned it around and we headed back. Sure enough, we were stopped on the road yet again while the movie filming continued. Fortunately, it only took about 15 minutes before we were allowed to drive on. We returned to our starting point just 10 minutes later than our allotted 3 hours. We had spent almost 2 hours on pavement and only 1 hour of our 3-hour, 4-wheel back country tour on a dirt road that wouldn't have challenged a regular pickup truck. Not happy. 

The most interesting place on the 4-wheel drive road
We went back to the hotel to shower and change out of our wet-from-sweat clothes. We ate a few of our road snacks we still had and ended up taking naps before we returned to Moab Adventure Center for the 4-wheelin' rock crawling sunset tour we had signed up for. We went with the mindset that if this one was as disappointing as the back country tour, we were going to raise hell until they gave us our money back. Fortunately, no hell needed to be raised because this one was a lot of fun and very interesting. 

Our Hummer on the back country tour. The driver
was off having a smoke.
We loaded up into another Hummer, but this time, we had 6 other people (3 couples) with us. They were all very nice and our guide was very outgoing, engaging, and funny. Being true to my Texas upbringing, I let the women get seated first and of course their men sat beside them so, without setting out to do it intentionally, I ended up being the last to board. That worked out great for me as that meant I got to sit in the front seat next to the driver - the very best place to be! We only had to drive about 10 minutes on pavement before turning off on a dirt road where we ended up 2 minutes later facing a large boulder. 

Our rock climbing Hummer and driver/guide
"Well," said our driver as he pointed to a group of other large boulders ahead of us, "we need to get up there, but I'm not sure how to get there." We sat there for a few seconds as he appeared to be thinking about it. "Oh, what the heck" he said, put it in 1st gear and headed straight for that big rock in front of us! The next thing we knew, our Hummer was climbing up and we were leaning way back in our seats holding our collective breath! 

I admit, I would never have thought a vehicle could have gone into and out of the places we did. We eventually caught up with another tour group and I swear the two drivers began trying to outdo each other in where they could drive those Hummers and we certainly benefited from it. Of course, it might have just been all a part of the adventure as neither of them were ever unsafe, always driving slowly and getting out to inspect the route any time it seemed particularly steep, but it was very enjoyable anyway.

Our friendly rival group going down where we had just been
About 3/4 of the way through the tour, we arrived at the top of the trail. We all dismounted and watched as the sun set and a full moon rose from behind the distant mountains. Some stood, some sat down, but everyone was very quiet, all lost in their own thoughts. Michael and I have been very good friends for many years. We get along well and I really enjoy taking road trips with him, but right then, I sure missed my wife.

After the sun went down, we headed on back. At one point, we hit a rock sticking up at the bottom of a precipitous descent which poked a hole in the oil pan. After looking it over, the driver decided it wasn't leaking much and we could limp it back to the offices. This tour certainly made up for that disappointing first excursion and I wouldn't hesitate to recommend you experience it. 

Enjoyed the scenery while crawlin' the rocks
After supper, we retired early as we planned to get an early start back home in the morning. On the way back, we stopped several times going through Colorado to take in the beautiful scenery and to eat and walk around the historic town of Creed. After one more night in a cheap little privately owned motel, we arrived back home safe and sound the next day right at our expected time. 

This trip, like many of our other road trips, proved to be a really interesting and adventurous time away from our normal every-day lives. We saw many beautiful things and we met and talked to many interesting people. I truly wish everyone could and would take some time and slow down, travel around and experience this incredibly beautiful country peopled with incredibly friendly and caring humans. As for me, I'm already in the planning stages for an epic solo "Seeing America" road trip driving 1,894 miles on Hwy 83 all the way from the border in Brownsville, Texas north into Canada. Stay tuned!
Moon rising from behind the mountains.
(photo by Michael)

 
Sunset

Cool valley in Colorado
Waterfall in Colorado
We had a wonderful time walking around Creed, Colorado

















Road Trip to Utah - Part 6 - Arches

Our last-but-one day in Utah and to change things up we decided on breakfast at Denny's rather than Love Muffin. Should have stuck with Love Muffin. Pretty much the usual Denny's food, but the service was less than desirable. It took a while to be seated even though there were a number of empty tables which were just waiting to be cleaned. Several employees were standing around looking at customers standing in line for seating, but evidently only one person can clean off the tables and he was in no hurry. Love Muffin will get our business tomorrow.

Heading north on Hwy 191 again, which by now we know every business along the way by heart, we arrived at Arches National Park just five miles after leaving Moab. Breaking out my Senior National Park Pass at the entrance booth, the nice Ranger gave us our park materials and waved us on through with a smile. Have I said lately how much I love having a Senior National Park Pass? After stopping at the visitor's center for more information on the park and to buy my usual souvenir t-shirt and cap, we headed in and soon found ourselves in another world.

According to geologists, about 300 million years ago, the land here was covered in a salty sea. When it was cut off from replenishment, the water eventually evaporated and left behind a layer of salt more than 3,000 feet thick. Sediment then covered the salt, but it did not settle evenly and over a few million years, unequal pressures caused the salt to flow upward in some places which created tall, dirt and rock covered rises with hard upper surfaces. Groundwater from rain melted the underlying salt which opened the way for erosion to form freestanding fins of rock. With continued erosion, holes formed in some of these fins. The result? A collection of natural arches, huge sandstone fins and a stark landscape unlike anywhere else in the world. 

Courthouse Towers
Not far past the visitor's center is the formation known as Courthouse Towers. When we parked and walked up to the overlook, there was a husband and wife taking each other's picture with the Courthouse Towers in the background. As is rather customary in such settings, I asked them if they would like me to take their picture together. After taking several, I handed their camera back and we started a conversation. Of course, one of the questions asked was, "Where are you from?" Now first, let me tell you I currently live in a very small community in the state of Arkansas. It's a pretty place, quiet and friendly, but it's so small that very few people have heard of it. How small is it? (Sorry, I couldn't resist.) It's so small that it's one stop light short of being a one stop light town. So imagine our surprise when we discovered we live about 3 miles from each other on opposite sides of our town! We didn't know each other, but here we were, over 1,220 miles from home basically in the middle of nowhere and we met each other. A little more talking, and we found out their daughter is two grades behind mine and they go to the same school! One of those weird coincidences that life throws together sometimes.

The Three Gossips
In the words of the writer and naturalist Edward Abbey, "This is a landscape that has to be seen to be believed, and even then, confronted directly by the senses, it strains credulity." I can't argue with that and since pictures can convey things so much better than any words I can string together, I'll just let some pictures do the talking for me. 



Balanced Rock




Double Arches
View along a hiking trail
Your intrepid blog author







(click here for Part 1)  

Road Trip to Utah - Part 5 - Canyonlands

We both woke up rather early since we had fallen asleep rather early the night before. The plan for the day was to take in as much of Canyonlands National Park as we could in one day. Neither of us like to rush our visits to anywhere, especially a national park, but we wanted to see Arches National Park the next day and had reservations for a guided 4-wheelin' adventure and rock-crawlin' the day after that and Michael had to be back home in 4 days so we had to make the best of it.

I made a cup of coffee in the motel room, but only drank half of it and made a mental note to not do that again. After another breakfast at Love Muffin (a big slice of yummy fresh Banana Bread and a good cup of coffee which I drank all of and wouldn't have minded another), we headed back up Main Street/Hwy 191 for 11 miles to once again turn left on Hwy 313, but this time, we drove on past the turn to Dead Horse Point. About 19 miles after turning onto the highway, we arrived at the northern entrance of the park. 

The entrance fee is $25 per car, which I consider very reasonable for the sheer awesomeness of the park. However, if you are an American citizen aged 62 or more, you qualify for what I think is the absolute best senior discount ever, the National Park Senior Pass. This pass gets you and everyone in your car free entry into any National Park plus a 50% discount on other fee's within the park like camping, tours, transportation and on some concessions. The pass is also recognized by the Bureau of Land Management, Forest Service and Corps of Engineer parks. And the cost? How about a one time fee of $10! For me, my National Park Senior Pass is one of the best things about getting old!

Breaking out my Senior Pass, the Ranger welcomed us with a friendly smile, provided maps and park information, invited us to have a nice visit and waved us on in. Driving down Grand View Point Road, we entered the park and soon came to Island In The Sky Visitor Center. Of course we had to stop to buy park t-shirts (yes, I now have a pretty large collection of shirts from most of the highlight places I've been - "been there, done that, got the t-shirt!") and little knick-knacks to bring back for the girls we left at home. 

To say we enjoyed our visit to Canyonlands would be an understatement. To be honest, this park might not be for everybody. The land is a maze of rock layers and dirt that are the products of erosion by ancient rivers and seas that once covered the region. The climate is dry, vegetation sparse. Deep canyons and sheer cliffs dominate. I have a long-time close friend, my "brother-from-another-mother" who I would not trade for the world, but he likely would not be crazy about this place. He calls land like this a "desiccated, wasted land." If it doesn't have trees and greenery, he's not a fan.

In quiet contemplation
For me though, I love the sparseness and rugged starkness. To me, it's a place of beauty and wonder perfect for calm introspection and relaxation. I always come away feeling peaceful and relaxed; contentment in my soul. I found it to be one of those all too few places that when you leave, part of you wants to tell everyone about it, but part of you wants to tell no one.

One day is not near enough time to see all there is to see. The two short hikes we took only served to expose the vastness and glories of the park. I'll be back and next time, you can be sure it will be for multiple days with no set deadline for leaving.

So many places and such little time! Lord, why couldn't I have been born rich with nothing to do but travel and see the world's wonders? I'm not sure even a full lifetime would be enough.

View point from Island In The Sky
The awesome Rim Trail we drove


Feeling small in the vastness