Route 66 - Hello Missouri!

continued from previous post.

The Gateway Arch in St. Louis
After crossing over the Mississippi River on the I-270 bridge, we followed the signs up a hill to the Missouri Welcome Center just outside St. Louis. It was so hot that just walking 100 feet from the parking lot to the entrance made us appreciate the cool air inside. Staffed by a couple of very nice and knowledgeable folks, they happily provided us with a road map of Missouri and printed directions to the Arch. I noticed a full pot of coffee beside the door with a sign saying, "Free Coffee." We spent about 10 minutes reading brochures and looking around and I noted nobody took them up on their hot coffee offer. When it's close to 100 degrees, evidently even the most die-hard coffee drinker would rather have something else, free or not!

Following the instructions given us by the visitor center staff, we took a serpentine route which roughly followed several of the paths taken by Route 66 at various times in history. Along the way we passed through areas that had obviously seen better days and I would be cautious about driving around those area's after dark, but it wasn't as bad as parts of Chicago that we had driven through. We saw the Arch several miles before actually getting there and after we arrived, we discovered that road signs as to where to park were either non-existent or hard to follow. It's a very large area, but after a few minutes, we found a parking garage that only charged $6. All of the inside (shaded!) spots were taken so we had to park on the upper level in that bright sun. We could see the top of the Arch so we followed a line of people into the National Expansion Memorial Park through a large stand of trees providing welcome shade.

Youngest-daughter below the Arch as the
clouds started rolling in.
The Arch itself is located on 4 or 5 open acres of mowed grass. The 630-foot tall structure is much larger than indicated by the numerous pictures I had seen of it. The thing is huge! When we first arrived, the day was blinding bright, but as we walked around, clouds quickly moved in. The heat didn't go down any and the humidity went higher. Soon, even Youngest-daughter said she was ready to get back to the car to get out of the heat - this from a 13-year-old who, like most teenagers, doesn't seem to feel heat or cold the way grownups do.

Let's go back about 4 weeks. I was working in my home office, barefoot, when I heard it start to rain. I decided I needed a break anyway so I walked across the room to the window to check out the clouds. Next to the window is a small table where I keep genealogy records, research material and photography stuff to work on when I get the chance. The table has been in that same exact spot for 3 years so it's not like I didn't know it was there. I can't explain it, just one of those stupid "how in the hell did that happen?" moments. I stubbed 2 of my toes on one of the table legs. Not just a little stub, I kicked the damn thing! The pain shot up my foot, into my ankle and straight to the pain center. I crumbled to the ground loudly saying words I would not want my daughter to know the meaning of. The toe next to my pinkie toe was bent at a weird angle. The bottom of it was now on the side. No doubt about it, toe broke.

Now, back to the day at the Arch. I told you about my toe so you'll understand what happened next. I had finally stopped limping and my toe was almost back to it's normal pink color rather than the angry black and blue it had been for weeks, but it was still tender. We decided to head back to the car to get out of the heat so we walked across the open grassy area until we were standing directly under the arch. I stopped and aimed my camera straight up to take what I thought would be an interesting shot. As I was standing there taking my picture, minding my own business, all of a sudden I heard my daughter shout "Daddy!" and I heard a male voice a few yards behind me shout, "Look out!" I had no idea what danger I was in or where it was coming from, but survival instinct kicked in and I quickly ducked my head and brought down the camera as I started to duck down. It was a good thing I did as a rather large guy came down from the sky, his elbow brushing the top of my head, his body bumping into my side and the heel of his foot crashing down full force on my poor broken toe. He was actually a young man who, with a group of other college-age people, were playing some kind of game with a whirly-bird do-hicky. It was like a dart kind of thing that they would throw in the air and then it would float down on helicopter blades. Evidently he was running to catch it, was watching it rather than where he was going, and just happened to jump up to grab it as he came up behind me. He was a nice kid, apologized several times, kept calling me sir and I knew it had been an accident so I told him it was ok, don't worry about it. But my toe was screaming it was not ok.

Youngest-daughter and I made our way over to a bench and sat down for a while, waiting for my toe to stop screaming. After a while, I limped my way back to the car. My toe was already starting to swell and turn red. 5 acres of open space and the guy comes down on the few inches of ground my foot covered! Time to get out of the big city.

Ted Drewes Frozen Custard in St. Louis
We got on Route 66 again, on Gravois Avenue to 6726 Chippewa Street where we stopped at Ted Drewes Frozen Custard.  Locals and Route 66 travelers have been purchasing frozen treats at this site since 1941. Try the concrete milkshake.

Finally leaving St. Louis, we entered a geographic region of forested hills with deep cuts and steep grades. For me, it was a great change from the city we had just escaped from. Our next stop was in Eureka at the Route 66 State Park. Situated on the banks of the Meramec River, it is located on the site of the former community of Times Beach. Back in the 1920's, the town of Times Beach was founded and developed as a vacation spot for St. Louis residents. By the 1970's, the community was showing its age and the population had changed to lower income residents. The roads had never been paved and the dust was annoying so the town contracted with a small company to spray the streets with oil. The only problem was the cheap oil the 1-man operation used was, unknown to him, contaminated with dioxin, exposing everyone in the town to a serious dose of the toxic substance. In the early 1980's, the government admitted there was a big problem in Times Beach and bought the entire town from its residents. Everyone was gone by 1985, and by 1992, all of the town's buildings except one were torn down. A few years later, an incinerator was built and the top 6 inches of dirt was scraped off and sanitized.

Today, the area is perfectly safe and that 1 building that survived is now the Route 66 State Park Visitor Center which houses memorabilia and interprets the environmental success story of the former community.

Restored neon sign from a Route 66 business.




Route 66 Harley Davidson in the visitor center.
Sure made me want to do Route 66 on a bike!
 
Following the Mother Road into Pacific, a town nearly wiped out by a battle there during the Civil War, we stopped at Monroe's 66 Diner at 409 E. Osage. Opened in the early 1940's, it served Route 66 travelers until about 2005 when it closed. Known for it's stone front attached to a Quonset Hut structure, the closing was a cause for mourning among long-time patrons. However, it re-opened in early May, 2012, just a couple of weeks before we stopped there. It now is named The Down South Café and serves American food as well as Cajun and Creole - po'boy sandwiches, gumbo, beignets, etouffe, and fried alligator. We would have eaten there, but it was Sunday and they evidently are closed on Sunday's so I can't testify as to the quality of the food. Looking through the windows, we could see the inside has been decorated with Route 66 décor and we had fun with the alligator on the sign in front.

Monroe's diner - the famous stone front and
Quonset Hut rear.
It was starting to get a little late in the afternoon, but we made our way a few miles on down to the town of Villa Ridge and the Tri-County Restaurant and Truck Stop, another famous Route 66 establishment we had heard about.  Pulling into the parking lot, we were disappointed again as it was closed due to construction. Giving up on getting a sit-down meal and needing gas for the truck, we stopped at the next gas station/convenience store, fed the truck (18 gallons at almost $4 per gallon - ouch!) and grabbed some road food to munch on as we made our way to the town of Staunton and a stop at the Meramec Caverns.

Fried Alligator is on the menu now so the rubber
alligator on the sign in front is a nice touch!

Go to the first Route 66 entry here.
Or go to the first entry of each state:

Route 66 - The End of Illinois & Ms Barbeau

It was starting to feel like we had been in Illinois forever and to be honest, Youngest-daughter and I were both starting to get a little tired of still being in Illinois. Not tired of Route 66, but you could say we were looking forward to seeing Route 66 in a different state. So we got up before 7:00AM and put the Collinsville Fairfield Inn behind us. It was a decent hotel, reasonable price, clean, good beds, middle-of-the-road toilet paper and the A/C worked well enough to get our room to a chilly good sleeping temp so it gets a thumbs up from us.

The disappointing and misleadingly advertised
Mustang Corral.
Next on our list of sites was a place advertised as "The Mustang Corral, a large lot with about 200 Mustangs waiting for a second life." This was on Youngest-daughter's list of must stops since she loves horses. I had serious doubts as to exactly what this is, but we were going by it anyway since it is on the route. Sure enough, Youngest-daughter was thoroughly disappointed as it was just a big dirt parking area for old Ford Mustang cars. I'm not sure what it was all about as there was no building and nobody around trying to sell them or anything.  I have no idea why it is even listed in several Route 66 books, but I can tell you, there is no reason to stop here. Even though it was still relatively early in the morning, it was already hot and the dry conditions resulted in all of the cars being covered in a layer of dirt. We didn't help matters as we drove around on the dirt rows between the cars for a few minutes and quickly raised a huge cloud of dust. We carried a few pounds of The Mustang Corral away with us when we left with my truck covered in a layer of it. (I later learned there is a dirt road in back that leads to a Mustang parts "junkyard" that has been around as long as the cars. I didn't see it so I can't say for sure, but for my 2 cents worth, just because a place has been around for a long time doesn't mean it's a "must stop" place.)

Luna Cafe - the top floor was where the
"Fallen Doves" serviced their customers.
It soon became obvious that we were leaving behind the farms of rural southern Illinois and coming to the suburbs of St. Louis. Entering Mitchell, we stopped at the famous Luna Cafe (N38 45 42.1 W090 05 18.7), former hangout for shady characters, most notably, Al Capone. Built in 1924, it was once a fine-dining establishment, but after the the wealthy, law-abiding patrons had eaten and gone back home, the place became a high-class gambling den and hosted a bevy of "ladies of the night" in the upstairs rooms. The neon sign in front of the establishment featured a cherry in a glass and according to old stories, the cherry would be lit and shining bright red if the ladies were in and available for customers. The girls are gone and the place is much more subdued and worn now, a working-class establishment catering to the local folks and travelers of Route 66.

Chain of Rocks Bridge
Taking Illinois SR 157 through Edwardsville, we followed Route 66 through a rather confusing stretch of twists and turns until we came to the Chain of Rocks bridge. Built in 1929 and financed by tolls, it was designed to link Illinois with Missouri by going straight across the Mississippi River. 5,353 feet long (1.632 miles) and 24 feet wide, it is one of the most architecturally interesting bridges in the world due to poor planning.  Illinois and Missouri were both in a hurry to get the bridge completed so they started building it on both sides and planned to meet in the middle. However, when they got close, they found out there wasn't any bedrock in that section of the river to build a solid foundation. To get around this problem, they had to build and meet 200 yards up river. The 22-degree bend right there in the middle of the bridge proved to be a constant hazard for drivers.

Where Ms Barbeau breathed her last in the
movie  Escape from New York"
In 1967, the New Chain of Rocks Bridge carrying Interstate 270 opened just 2,000 feet from the old bridge  which closed in 1968. The bridge began to deteriorate and during the 1970s, Army demolition teams considered blowing it up for practice. In 1975, demolition was eminent, but fortunately, a bad market saved the old girl. The value of scrap steel plummeted, making demolition no longer profitable.  The Chain of Rocks Bridge then entered 20 years of uncertainty - too expensive to tear down, but too narrow and rusted to carry modern vehicles. There she sat, slowly falling apart until 1980 when film director John Carpenter used the gritty, rusting bridge as a site for his science fiction film, Escape from New York.  The bridge is where, near the end of the movie, Kurt Russell made his escape and poor Adrienne Barbeau's ample, jiggly bosom rose and fell for the last time with her cinematic dying breath.  Restored, painted and maintained, it is now the longest pedestrian bridge in the world and provides a great view of the Mississippi River for those who walk, jog, or bike across it.

The Mississippi River as seen from the
Chain of Rocks Bridge.




Walking back into Illinois after crossing into
Missouri on the Chain of Rocks Bridge.
The multi-talented Ms Barbeau before breathing
her last on the Chain of Rocks bridge.
Returning to BFT (Big Ford Truck) in the gravel parking lot of the bridge, it was a huge relief to start the air conditioner and just sit there feeling the cool air on our hot, sweaty bodies. The temp gauge said it was 97 and you could feel every one of those degrees. I don't know how high the humidity was, but the sweat was running down our faces, our shirts were clinging to us like a wet second skin and we each sucked down a big bottle of water.

We drove a couple of blocks to take the I-270 bridge across the river and there it was, the Missouri state sign. Finally, we were out of Illinois! We had made it to the Show Me state, land of the Ozarks and Jesse James. One state down, 7 more to go. Although we really just wanted to stay in the truck with the A/C blowing on us, there was no way we were going to come this far and not take a side trip in St. Louis to see the Gateway Arch. I'm glad we saw it, but it turned out to be a rather painful decision that would have repercussions for the rest of our trip.


Go to the first Route 66 entry here.
Or go to the first entry of each state: