Road Trip to Woodstock & Beyond - Days 4 & 5

 Click HERE to read Day 1     Click HERE to read Day 2&3


After the Corvette Museum, it was a nice little 2-hour drive to Louisville, Kentucky, and the next stop on our itinerary - Momma's Mustard, Pickles & BBQ Restuarant. After our horrible experience with the barbeque at Tom’s in Memphis, we decided to try for some good “Q” at another highly-touted eatery. Fortunately, despite the weird name, this place came much closer to our expectations. It wasn’t great Texas barbeque, but it wasn’t bad. Clean, friendly service, reasonable prices, and cute girls as waitresses. OK, in today’s culture that may be considered sexist by some, but these 2 old guys raised in the old days of yore still appreciate nice female works of art and we will not apologize!

When in Louisville, of course, you must tour the Louisville Slugger Factory & Museum. Looking it up online, it was “strongly suggested” that you get your tickets before you arrive as they are often sold out. Our arrival time left only 2 tours remaining for that day and both were almost full so we checked into a really nice hotel, the Fairfield Inn & Suites Louisville East. This was one of the best hotels we stayed in the whole trip - plenty of parking, friendly staff, and clean facilities. The room was clean and very nice with very comfortable beds. Wi-Fi was fast and never dropped. In the morning there was plenty of hot water for a good shower. Quiet all night long. Can’t ask for much more than that! We bought our Louisville Slugger tickets for the next day, got some sandwiches, and brought them back to the room to eat while we watched more of the Women’s Softball Championship.

Day 5

Entrance to Louisville
Slugger Factory
 & Museum
Arriving at the Museum at the appointed time the next morning, we were amazed to find that instead of the group of 20 for the tour, we were the only 2 people! We had a great tour guide who was able to give us his undivided attention. It was a really interesting experience. We learned how the bats are made, the different kinds of wood preferred by different major-league players, and watching them actually being made was way cool. Everyone, including the workers, were very friendly. Our guide was knowledgeable and never seemed to get tired of our many questions. As a souvenir, we both got a “nub,” (the end part of a bat that is cut off before the final processing) from a bat destined to be used by a major league player. At the end of the tour, we were given another souvenir, a small Louisville Slugger bat. It was a very enjoyable experience and especially interesting to me as a former user of Louisville Slugger bats when I played youth and high school baseball. I thought the souvenirs in the gift shop were a bit expensive and I didn’t find a shirt I liked so I didn’t get anything besides the souvenirs from the tour and a refrigerator magnet for my collection. I highly recommend this stop.

Other than stopping for a fast-food lunch, gas, and road food, the rest of the day was spent driving, telling stories, remembering things we have experienced together, and generally, just enjoying each other’s company. 360 miles later, we checked into another nice hotel in Washington, Pennsylvania – The Hampton Inn & Suites, Pittsburg-Meadow Lands. After driving most of the day, we dropped off for a nice, restful sleep by 10:30. We had another interesting little side trip scheduled for the next morning.

Another nice breakfast at a nearby Waffle House and 35 miles on down the road brought us to the small, quiet little town of Perryopolis, Pennsylvania. Why in the world would we drive so far to visit such a small, rather unremarkable town? To see the “Buffalo Bill House” of course. No, not the Buffalo Bill of Old West fame. We’re talking Buffalo Bill from the movie “Silence of the Lambs.” He of the famous chilling line, “I ate his liver with some fava beans and a nice Chianti.” If you watched this movie for the first time late at night like I did, there wasn’t much sleep afterward as your eyes stayed wide open and you jumped at every little sound in the night. Here in little Perryopolis is the house used for the exterior shots as the house where Buffalo Bill had his victim pit and his little dog and his bottle of lotion. Except for the movie sign in the front yard and the "Private Property" signs, it looks like just a normal nice house in a small, quiet town. A fun thing to tell your friends about what you saw on your road trip! Maybe the best thing though is the relaxing drive getting to the house. You must drive down a well-maintained, pretty, 2-lane road with trees on either side closing in over the top, then down a side street through a tunnel dug through a mountain which is followed by a one-lane trestle bridge, and then across a set of railroad tracks. Worth the side trip if you have the time.

"Buffalo Bill's" house
Just 90 miles away was our next stop – Punxsutawney, Pennsylvania. I mean, who hasn’t had the desire to see Punxsutawney Phil and visit the famous Gobbler’s Knob where every February 2nd, the venerable, and supposedly immortal, groundhog holds forth each year with his weather predictions. The "Inner Circle" members – recognizable from their top hats and tuxedos – communicate with Phil to receive his prognostication. This suspension of disbelief, a central requirement for the festival, extends to the assertion that the same groundhog has been making predictions since the nineteenth century. According to legend, there is only one Phil, all other groundhogs are impostors. It is claimed that this one groundhog has lived to make weather predictions since 1886, sustained by drinks of "groundhog punch" and "elixir of life" administered at the annual Groundhog Picnic in the fall.

Unknown to most, Phil does not live at Gobbler’s Knob. His actual home is in a nice, cozy den in the Punxsutawney Library. We had that information along with the address of the library, but we drove around for 20 confusing minutes or so because we couldn’t find a building that looked like a library or had a sign indicating it was a library. The address where it was supposed to be was a police station with a parking lot full of police cars. I really needed to relieve myself of the morning’s coffee so I told Chip (who was driving) to just pull into the police station thinking surely they had a bathroom I could quickly borrow. He didn't want to do that because "we'll get a ticket." Then I noticed a line of regular civilian parked cars along one small row so I told Chip just park in there with those cars. Reluctantly, Chip pulled in and parked. Great friend he is, “OK, but if we get a ticket, you’re paying it.” 

Punxsutawney Phil relaxing at home
It was then I finally saw a little sign that just said, “Library.” Maybe one end of the building was a police station and the other end was the library? Walking around to the other side of the building, the side with no parking lot, the side facing a quiet, little park with lots of grass and trees, the side that had no indication you could see from the road that it was a library, and there we found the library’s front door and just inside the front door was, thank goodness, a men’s restroom! A few minutes later, I walked into the aisles of books and a lady told me the library was closed due to Covid restrictions. I asked if this is where Phil lives. Yep, over in the corner and yes, you can go over and see him. Sure enough, looking into an enclosure with a wall of thick glass was the legendary Phil! Unfortunately, the glass was very dirty and scratched up so bad, you could barely see into Phil’s home. I noticed there was another window on the other side that faced outward. We walked outside to the window, but that window too was heavily scratched and dirty. I took several terrible pictures of Phil (due to the condition of the glass), who seemed quite relaxed and paid us no never-mind. I must admit, it was a tad underwhelming. In fact, it was very underwhelming.

Gobbler's Knob Park
Making it back to the car (no ticket!), we then drove about 2 miles outside of town to Gobbler’s Knob. Until I researched it, I thought Gobbler’s Knob was somewhere in Punxsutawney, like in a downtown park. Not so. It is about 2 miles southeast of town, set off all by itself. We arrived to find we were the only people there, so we took our time driving around looking at the well-maintained stage and park. It too was a bit underwhelming, but still, we enjoyed seeing in person the stage and all the Groundhog Day things we’ve seen on TV for years. 

The famous stage where Phil
delivers his prediction
We made our way back to town to eat at Joe’s Drive-In, the highly-rated old-fashioned diner famous for serving up the best hamburgers in Punxsutawney. The burgers were ok. Certainly not Whataburger or even In-N-Out quality, but I guess the Punxsutawney residents are pleased as punch with them.

Putting Punxsutawney in our rearview mirror, we headed about 80 miles south to Stoystown, Pennsylvania and the Flight 93 National Memorial. Neither of us anticipated the intense feelings we would soon feel.

Phil statue at Joe's Drive-In


Road Trip to Woodstock & Beyond - Days 2 & 3

Click HERE to read Day 1

Day 2 

The next morning, we had a rather frustrating experience in Jackson, Tennessee. Trying to follow the GPS to the bakeshop, the designated exit was closed due to construction. No big deal, we'll just go down an exit and come back. The next exit, closed due to construction. Hmmm. And the next exit, closed due to construction. Three exits in a row closed due to road construction! Whose bright idea was it to do that? We finally got to the next exit, went over a couple of blocks and headed back to the bakeshop's address. We made it to the street where it was located and found it too was closed for construction! Close to giving up, we decided to give it one more try so back the way we came and across the highway hoping we could get across at the right street by going under the highway. Nope, closed due to construction. That's it! Woodstock Bakery will just have to wait until some other time. 

We had to go a block away from the highway so we could get to an open highway entrance and along the way, guess what we found - the Woodstock Bakery! Turns out there is a south Innsdale Cove Road and a north Innsdale Cove Road and we had been trying to go to the wrong one! Not sure all the hassle was worth it, but we did buy several items each for later consumption and we had a nice conversation with the friendly, young girl behind the counter. We really felt old when we told her we were on our way to Woodstock and she didn't have a clue what we were talking about. Everything we purchased and ate was delicious!

If you ever find yourself in Jackson, Tennessee, and if the road construction has been completed, get a chocolate cupcake from the Woodstock Bakery - yummy! Next up - Cooter's Dukes of Hazzard Museum and a late lunch with Paula Deen in Nashville.

It's about 135 miles from Jackson to Nashville. And if you have to keep slowing down due to road construction, it takes a while to drive those 135 miles. I love going on road trips with my buddy because we have so much in common. Driving from one destination to the next, we reminisce about old girlfriends who did us wrong and recall good times back when we were young and old age and death was remote. He is sneaking up on 70 and I have embraced 70 so we talk about aches and pains, bad knees, and lower back pains and we can’t remember where we put anything. We tell each other wonderful stories and the next day we say, “Hey, did I tell you the story about the time ...?” and the reply will be, “No, I don’t think so,” and we’ll do it all over again.

Aisles and aisles of stuff to buy at Cooter's
You may remember the TV show Dukes of Hazard back in 1979 and the early 80's. In today's political climate, can you even imagine if that show aired now? Most of the regular cast, Denver Pyle (Uncle Jesse), Tom Wopat (Luke Duke), John Schneider (Bo Duke), and Catherine Bach (Daisy Duke) went on to fame and bigger roles. Not so Ben Jones (Cooter) who has made his living being associated with Dukes of Hazzard. Of course, we had to visit "Cooter's Place" his Dukes of Hazzard museum. It's in a small building jammed pack full of the show's artifacts and lots of things for sale like t-shirts, Daisy Duke shorts, bandanas, playing cards, General Lee and Daisy Jeep model cars, postcards, signs - most anything you can think of. Maybe most interesting of the whole thing was the actual General Lee (1969 Dodge Charger), Rosco's patrol car (1978 Plymouth Fury), and Daisy's Jeep (1980 Jeep CJ-7). It was a fun way to spend about 30 minutes and well worth the free entrance fee!

After Cooter's Place, we were a couple of hungry guys! We found our way to Paula Deen’s Family Kitchen. By the time we arrived, it was the early afternoon after the lunch rush hour should have been over, but it was still very busy and we had to wait for 30 minutes to get a table. After being seated and getting our food, we found it was well worth the wait! We got to choose 2 entrees and 4 side dishes for the table (served family style) for about $20 per person. It's a bit expensive for lunch but worth it! I chose Beef Pot Roast and if I remember correctly, Chip chose the Fried Catfish. We had Creamed Potatoes, Cole Slaw, Candied Yams and corn for the side dishes. Each and every item was great! And if you want more of an item, just ask because it is unlimited refills. You also get a dessert, but we ate so much we couldn't eat another bite, even for dessert. Fortunately, they are happy to put your chosen dessert in a to-go container for your enjoyment later. I took a peach cobbler and Chip chose the Ooey Gooey Butter Cake. They were both a wonderful treat in our hotel room later that night. Highly recommend Paula Deen’s!

With very satisfied full tummy's, we got back on the road again headed to Bowling Green, Kentucky, Unlike Cooter's museum, we were headed for a much different, very interesting museum.

From Nashville to Bowling Green, Kentucky is only 70 miles. We arrived there a little after 4:00, but after our full-on meal at Paula Deen’s and then driving just a little over an hour, we decided it would be a good time to take the rest of the day off to relax a bit. We rarely make hotel reservations beforehand because we want to be free to stop early or late and we usually don’t know exactly where we’ll be when we decide to stop for the night. On our road trips, we usually live by the words of Lao Tzu – “A good traveler has no fixed plans and is not intent on arriving.”

We checked into a LaQuinta Inn and proceeded to relax, i.e. nap time! Our good luck with getting good hotels on the fly continued as our room was clean, cold, quiet, and had very comfortable beds. We woke up just in time to feast on Slotsky sandwiches and chips from the shop next door to the hotel and then settled in to eat our Paula Deen desserts and watch college Girls World Series softball games. It was a very good day.

Day 3

The next morning, after a surprisingly good breakfast at a Waffle House near the hotel, we drove to the reason we were in Bowling Green – The National Corvette Museum. Now this is a great museum! From the first Corvette to the latest and greatest. There’s a lot to see here with information on each car, the difference between the year’s models, and who owned that particular car if it was somebody of importance or fame. The place is huge – 55-acre campus and 115,000 square feet under roof with wide aisles and friendly, knowledgeable staff. Before arriving, we figured we would spend an hour or so here, but it was so interesting, we spent 4 and could have stayed longer.

You may remember when the National Corvette Museum made international news headlines on February 12, 2014, when a sinkhole collapsed in the Skydome of the Museum in the middle of the night. No one was in the building when it happened, but security cameras were rolling and caught the incident on camera. Millions of viewers later watched on YouTube as 8 very special, very expensive Corvettes fell into the 30-foot cave-in. The museum did an excellent job of covering this. The damaged cars are on display with placards describing each car’s damage and how much it would cost to repair (several were beyond repair). The sinkhole is safe now, but there is a plexiglass-covered hole in the floor where you can look down into it. Seeing those beautiful cars damaged like that was enough to almost bring tears to my eyes.

And then there’s the gift shop – one of the best I’ve ever visited at a destination site. Pretty much any Corvette-related item you could want is there. Most of the items were a bit expensive, but all were of top-notch quality instead of the usual Chinese-made cheap tourist keepsakes. I got gifts for family members as well as a t-shirt, jacket and a great lap blanket for me. The back of our vehicle, Chip’s SUV, is already starting to fill up with our goodies and we’ve still got lots of places to see and things to do! Next stop on the road ahead – Day 4 in Louisville, Kentucky.

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Road Trip: From Arkansas to Woodstock & Beyond - Day 1

 My buddy and I recently completed an epic road trip. First stop was for BBQ at "Tom's Barbeque" in Memphis, Tennessee. I heard it was on Guy Fieri's show "Diners, Drive-Ins & Dives" and was featured in his book "Road Trip." It also appeared in an episode of "The Best Thing I Ever Ate" on TV. Gotta be good, right? Wrong. Terribly wrong.

The order window in Tom's BBQ
Turns out, Guy was there 11 years ago and the TV show was from 10 years ago. The restaurant has changed ownership and should now be listed number 1 on the Worst Barbeque In America. It looked like it has been at least 10 years since the place was cleaned. As we walked up to the order window, the lady behind the counter stared at us like we had just kicked her dog. The phone rang while we were ordering, she turned away, answered it, and ignored us for 5 minutes with us still standing there in mid-order. An older gentleman came over and said he would take our orders. After ordering, we went to the other counter to pay and the woman said, "over 55 dollars." I said, "Sorry?" since all I ordered was a plate lunch. She looked at me scowling and screamed, "I wasn't talking to you!" She then continued to talk to somebody I couldn't see behind her. 

Bad, just bad
When we finally got our food, my sliced beef brisket was a large dollop of chopped beef swimming in some kind of awful-tasting sauce. The beans tasted like they had been made several days ago and left out on the stove. The potato salad had no taste whatsoever. We asked if we could have some salt and pepper and were told nothing is available. My buddy's corn-on-the-cob was an old, dried-up, shriveled-up ear. He bought a canned coke and said that was the best part of the meal. We ended up leaving a lot on our plates. Not a good way to start a road trip. Our considered advice is to stay away from Tom's Barbeque in Memphis - far, far away! We headed on down the road to Brownsville, TN.

After escaping the horrid experience at Tom's BBQ (I'd just as soon bite a bug as eat there again!), we drove 64 miles to Brownsville, Tennessee. Located amongst the cypress groves where Bald Eagles nest, I have to say we didn't find a lot there. So why stop? Like a lot of road trip addicts, I love road kitsch, offbeat Americana, roadside attractions, and Brownsville has a great one - Billy Tripps Mindfield.

In 1989, Billy Tripp began work on his life’s project: the "Mindfield," an immense steel structure just a couple of blocks from the town’s main square. Using salvaged metal, Tripp constructed the largest outdoor sculpture in Tennessee. The sculpture is about an acre large and, at the tallest point, 125 feet high. Tripp has stated that the Mindfield represents his emotions, personal growth, as well as his significant life events. In 2002, after the death of his father, Tripp added one of the largest additions to the sculpture, a water tower from a closed factory in Kentucky.

Tripp's Mindfield
Currently, Tripp continues to work on the sculpture, building pieces in his shop behind the structure and then adding them. In a published interview, he said, “I see it as a conversation with myself, but it doesn’t bother me that it can be overheard by other people." Tripp has also written a book, The Mindfield Years: Volume 1, and is currently working on a second volume. Like the sculpture, the book is autobiographical and runs 725 pages long. Upon his death, he intends to be interred within the sculpture. “It will be my cemetery,” he has said. “It’s my grave marker.

After seeing it up close, I can see my mind and Billy Tripp's do not work in the same way. His work is certainly interesting, but it may be a good thing that his wife is a psychiatrist.

We stayed just long enough to stare at it while trying to figure out how a mind can conceive of such a thing. We were both quiet for a while, lost in our own thoughts. Thinking about it was putting a strain on our minds so, giving it up, we got back on the road. It was near sundown as we headed toward Jackson, Tennessee, our next destination and we still needed a place to stop and rest our weary heads for the night.

After visiting Billy Tripp's Mindfield, we headed to Jackson, Tennessee for some road trip food goodies at "Woodstock Bake Shop" which had come highly recommended. But it was getting late and looking on down the road, there were not many hotels so we pulled into a decent-looking Comfort Inn along the way. In our experience, Comfort Inns are usually ok, but not anything to write home about. Surprisingly, this one turned out to be really nice - very clean, new furniture, very comfortable beds, and even large, fluffy towels. Not much in the breakfast department, but that was due to Covid, not a shortcoming of the hotel.

Click HERE to read the next entry.

Red Ghost

Back in the old days in the Southwest, life was tough and often filled with new and frightening experiences. Strange, spooky rock formations abound throughout the land. In some places, it is as desolate as the moon, and in others, the vastness of the open spaces is quite intimidating. Spanish and Native American legends and superstitions were part of the pioneer history, along with the goblins,  pixies, demons, and devils settlers brought with them from various European countries. But sometimes, legends sprang up around factual historical events.

One example is the Red Ghost. One day in 1883, a woman was found trampled to death. Huge tracks and clumps of dull, red fur were found around the poor woman's broken body. A few weeks later, a large creature crashed into the tent of two sleeping miners, again leaving behind giant footprints and red hair. 

Camel
More sightings occurred in the area until finally, a former slave from North Africa recognized the beast as a camel. They named the creature the Red Ghost. One day, a pair of miners spied the Red Ghost grazing along a dusty draw. One of the men shouted at it and as they watched, something fell from the camel’s back as it ran away. When the prospectors went to investigate, they discovered it was a human skull. For years afterward, people would catch sight of the camel with its headless rider, sending chills down many spines. 

In 1883, a farmer finally shot and killed the camel while it was raiding his garden. Although the beast had finally shed the skeletal bones of its rider, it still wore the saddle and tack.

This incident has a basis in recorded historical events. In the late 1850s, the military was attempting to develop a supply route from Texas to California, but they found mules and horses were not suited for the rough, dry terrain. They sent an officer to the Middle East to learn about and purchase a group of camels. The military then tested the beasts on the Texas to California route. They were pleased with the result, but the Civil War began before more could be done and the camels were simply turned loose in the desert. For many decades afterward, settlers were startled by visions of camels in the deserts of southern Arizona, California, and Nevada.

So who was the headless rider carried by the Red Ghost? According to legend, he was one of the soldiers who tested the camels on the first expedition. Although nobody would testify at the time, years later, an old soldier who was a member of the camel brigade, told his doctor a story and swore to its truth shortly before he died. The tale he told was that one of the men was afraid of the beasts and had a hard time learning how to ride one. His fellow soldiers securely tied him to the saddle to help him learn. Then they smacked the critter on the rump sending him plunging off into the desert. Though his "friends" pursued him for several days, they never caught up with their unlucky comrade, who died still tied to the saddle.

The last documented sighting of a wild camel in the Southwest took place in 1934 by several men prospecting in the desert. They came upon a relatively recent dead camel body and took a picture of it. Newspapers took up the story and stated that the last American camel was dead. However, unverified sightings continue even today, including visions of the Red Ghost and his headless rider, whose apparitions apparently still roam the deserts of the Southwestern U.S.

The Men of Lonesome Dove

When Charles Goodnight and Oliver Loving first met, they became friends right away, but little did they know that together, they would alter the history of the American West. 

Charles Goodnight (historical photo)
Charles was born on March 5, 1836, in Illinois, the fourth child of Charles and Charlotte Goodnight. His father died of pneumonia when Charles was five and his mother soon married a neighbor, Hiram Daugherty. His step-father decided the family would take advantage of the opportunities offered by the nation of Texas so in 1845, Charles rode bareback on a horse named Blaze for 800 miles to their new home in central Texas. Charles was always proud of the fact he was born the same year the Republic of Texas was formed and arrived in Texas the same year Texas became of part of the United States. This journey was a turning point for Charles as he learned how to ride a horse, how to track, and how to hunt to provide food during their travels. He wanted to be a cowboy from this point on.

Unfortunately, Charlotte was left a widow for the second time when Hiram died in in 1853. Available women were rather hard to find in frontier Texas and it wasn't long before Charlotte found a new husband, the Reverend Adam Sheek. The Reverend was a widower himself and he brought into the union his son, John Wesley. Charles and John quickly became fast friends.

Reverend Sheek's brother-in-law owned the neighboring CV ranch. Charles and John  entered a deal in 1856 to take care of the ranch and they would receive every 4th calf born to the herd as payment. Charles and John dedicated themselves to learning everything about the cattle ranching business and in 4 years, they had 180 head of their own. 

When the Civil War broke out, Charles served by joining the Texas Rangers and John enlisted in the Confederate army. Before leaving to serve, they carefully branded each cow and turned them loose to freely roam the wilderness until their return. Charles spent four years on the edge of the frontier protecting settlers from attacks by Kiowa and Commanche Indians. 

During this time, he became widely known for his bravery in engagements with the Indians and his tracking skills. He was tasked with tracking down the location of Cynthia Ann Parker, who had been captured by Commanche when she was 10-years old. By the time she was recaptured 25 years later, she was married to a Commanche warrior, had several sons and a daughter and remembered nothing about her former life. She was forcibly separated from her husband, the Commanche leader Quanah Parker and her sons, but was allowed to keep her infant daughter who she had been carrying in her arms when she was captured. Several times, Cynthia Ann attempted to run away to rejoin her husband and her tribe, but each time, she was caught and returned. Unfortunately, while still a baby, her daughter, Topsannah, died. Cynthia Ann, having lost her daughter and knowing she would forever be separated from her sons and husband, refused to eat and died of a broken heart. Later in life, Charles said it would have been better if she had never been found and regretted helping to bring her back to her white family.

John survived several battles during the Civil War and when it was over, returned home. He and Charles were surprised to find their herd had grown from 180 head to almost 5000 in the 4 years they were gone. They bought the remaining 2,000 cattle from the CV Ranch and rounded up another 1,000 unbranded strays to bring their herd to 8,000. It was about this time when John met a girl, fell in love and decided he wanted to work in town and be a family man instead of a rancher. Charles took over the herd by himself.

When Charles returned home after the Civil war ended, he renewed his close friendship with a neighbor, Oliver Loving. A few months later, in 1866, Goodnight and Loving decided that instead of taking their herds up north, which was being flooded with cattle and thus offered very little profit, they would head northwest to Colorado where there were many soldiers and few cattle. 

Oliver Loving (historical photo)
Oliver Loving was born December 4, 1812 in Hopkins County, Kentucky.  He became a farmer and married his childhood sweetheart, Susan Dogget Morgan in 1833. In 1843, Loving, his brother and sister and their families moved to Texas. Within a short time, he had acquired 600 acres of land in Dallas, Collin and Parker counties and became a successful farmer and freight hauler. In 1855, Loving sold his property and moved his wife and their seven children to what is now Palo Pinto County where he opened and operated a store near Keechi Creek. While still operating the store, he purchased more land and started cattle ranching. By 1857, he owned more than 1,000 acres and over 5,000 cows. He and his sons made three successful cattle drives to the fledgling town of Denver, Colorado, bringing 1,500 head at a time. 

In 1861, when war broke out, Loving was commissioned to provide beef for the Confederate army. By 1865, when the war was over, the Confederate government was disbanded owing him over $150,000. With his devastated finances and large family to provide for, he knew he had to come up with some way of making a comeback. Enter his friendship with Goodnight.

The two men together decided to partner and take 2,000 head of cattle to Fort Sumner, New Mexico where troops were guarding 400 Apache and 8,000 Navajo Indians after the 1864 Long Walks. Both the soldiers and Indians were desperate for food. Going to Fort Sumner meant they would have to drive their herd across the Texas Panhandle which was very dangerous due to bandits and the Commanche and Apache Indians who still roamed the lands. Goodnight though, calling on his years as a Texas Ranger, was familiar with dealing with the Apache and Commanche and realized it was better to offer them cattle in exchange for safe passage. They hired 18 armed cowboys to guard against bandits and to help with the drive. To help feed the men, Goodnight invented the chuckwagon by converting an Army surplus Studebaker wagon for more practical use on the long drive. The men arrived in Fort Sumner safely with most of their herd intact and after selling 1,200 head to the army, were paid $12,000 in gold. Loving decided to take the rest of the herd north to Denver while Goodnight returned with the gold to Ft. Worth to purchase another herd. Goodnight brought this second herd on the same path as before and the two men met up again in Fort Sumner to sell the herd. The trail blazed by the two men became the famous Goodnight-Loving Trail. 

In the spring of 1867, Goodnight and Loving decided to make another cattle drive to Denver. Due to bad weather, flooding rivers, and extremely muddy trails, the herd was moving slowly and knowing other ranchers were also driving their cattle to Denver, Loving decided to ride ahead to secure a written contract before the other ranchers flooded the market and drove down the prices. Goodnight, knowing the dangers that lay ahead, made Loving promise to only travel at night. Taking their trusted one-armed scout, Bill Wilson, with him, Loving set out. Feeling that traveling at night was slowing them down too much, the two men began riding day and night. 

Oliver Loving grave
Unfortunately, coming over a rise in the land, they encountered a raiding party of 100 Commanche. Spuring their horses, they made their way to the banks of the Black River and took shelter there. By then though, Loving had been shot in the arm and side. Feeling himself getting weaker, he sent Wilson back to Goodnight for help. Wilson gave both of his pistols and most of his ammunition to Loving and carrying only a rifle, slid into the river's waters and safely floated past the Indians in the dark.  Loving held off the Indians the next day, but feeling his life was drifting away due to his wounds, he decided there was nothing left for him to do except try to escape. Just like Wilson had done, he silently slipped into the river and floated past the unsuspecting Indians. The next morning, the Commanch discovered what he had done and began to track him. Miraculously, he managed to evade the Indians for three days and nights and when he sensed they had left, probably because they thought he must be dead, he started following, limping and often crawling, the trail he helped blaze. Fortunately, a small group of Mexican traders came across him, gave him water and for a gold coin, put him in a wagon and brought him to Fort Sumner. 

Wilson, half-starved, barefoot and pursued by wolves, eventually made it back to Goodnight and the herd. He told them what had happened and where he had left Loving. He also reported he had shot and killed the Indian that wounded Loving. He said one Indian had crept through the weeds coming within several feet of them, but just as he was about to rise up and shoot, the men saw a large rattlesnake strike the Indian and he ran away. 

With several of the cowboys, Goodnight raced to the location reported by Wilson only to find Loving was nowhere to be found. After searching for 2 days, the men returned to the herd. Several days out from the fort, Goodnight learned from a passing cowboy that Loving was in the town being treated but the doctor was incompetent. He rushed ahead of the herd to find gangrene had set in his friends arm. To save his life, the arm needed to be amputated, but the doctor had never performed one and was too scared. Goodnight dispatched a rider to Santa Fe to bring back an experienced doctor, but it was too late. Loving died on September 25th, but before succumbing, he made Goodnight promise to bury him back in Texas, "where I can be at home rather than lie in alien soil." 

Goodnight and his cowboys had to finish the drive to Colorado so they fashioned a large tin casket out of soldered together oil cans, placed Loving's wooden casket inside the tin casket, filled the tin casket with charcoal and buried it in the local cemetery. After the cattle were sold in Denver, Goodnight and the cowboys returned to Fort Sumner, disinterred Loving and followed the Goodnight-Loving Trail, returning him to Texas. On February 8, 1868, with his family and many friends and cowboys in attendance, he was buried in Greenwood Cemetery in Weatherford.

Over the next few years, Goodnight continued to prosper by driving cattle north. In 1870, he married his long-time sweetheart, the beautiful Mary Ann (Molly) Dyer, a Weatherford school teacher. They never had children of their own, but they adopted a boy named Cleo Hubbard, the son of their long-time housekeeper. Cleo would later inherit most of the Goodnight fortune. 

Charles and Molly's headstone
in the Goodnight Cemetery
In 1876, Goodnight partnered with an Irish investor, John Adair, and established the JA Ranch in Palo Duro Canyon. By the summer of 1878, the ranch encompassed nearly a million acres with over 100,000 head of cattle and a small herd of buffalo. Later, when the wild buffalo almost became extinct, this herd became the nucleus of the current Texas State Bison Herd located in Caprock Canyons State Park, the last native herd out of the estimated 60 million buffalo that once roamed across the southern plains. 

When destitute, starving Indians led by Quannah Parker came to hunt and raid the Palo Duro area, Goodnight made treaty with them by promising and delivering 2 beeves every other day if they would not disturb the JA herd. He made good on his word and the Indians never took any of his herd. By 1880, the area began suffering from numerous cattle rustlers and horse thieves. The Texas Rangers were notified, but being short-handed, they replied they would get there when they could. Goodnight said never mind, he would take care of the problem himself. He established the Panhandle Stockman's Association near Mobeetie and immediately began applying vigilante justice to the area's outlaws and rustlers. Within a couple of months, the cattle rustling and horse stealing had ceased.

Goodnight's grave marked by cowboy bandanas
left by admirers
Forseeing the end of the open range, Goodnight sold his interest in the JA Ranch and established his own ranch of 25,600 acres in what eventually became the community of Goodnight, Texas. On December 27, 1887, he and Molly moved into the ranch house he built and he spent his time raising cattle, farming, and taking care of the herd of buffalo he had brought with him from the JA Ranch.  After his wife passed away in April, 1926, he continued to live in the home they had shared. In late 1926, Goodnight became very ill, but was nursed back to health by Corinne Goodnight (a distant cousin), a 26-year-old nurse. On March 5, 1927, the 91-year-old man shocked family and friends by marrying Corinne. He had been obsessively dedicated to Molly from the first time he met her and Corinne was young enough to be his great-grandaughter so it was a total shock to all. The couple shocked everyone again a few months later when they sold the ranch house and bought a home in Clarendon, Texas. In 1929, on the advice of doctors, they moved to Phoenix, Arizona for Goodnight's health. It didn't stop his decline and he died on December 12, 1929. His body was brought back to his Palo Duro ranch in Goodnight and he was buried in the Goodnight Cemetery next to his beloved Molly.

Bose Ikard was born into slavery in Mississippi in either 1843 or 1847 (no records exist and Bose stated he didn't know which year he was born). In 1852, he moved with his master Dr. Milton Ikard to Texas where Bose grew up to become a ranch hand and all-around cowboy. The war left Bose a free man and after becoming aquanted with Oliver Loving, he hired on as a tracker and guide for the Goodnight-Loving cattle drives. He soon won the respect of both men and became so trusted, he often served as their banker, carrying thousands of dollars in cash and gold until it could be deposited in their bank. There was never a difference of even one dollar less than what he had been intrusted with. After Loving was killed, Bose stayed on with Goodnight for four more years.

Bose Ikard
(historical photo)
The two men were life-long friends and after Bose got married to a woman named Angelina in 1869 and settled down in Weatherford, Texas, Goodnight visited him every chance he got and always brought presents, often cash, for the Ikard family. Bose and Angelina had a long and happy marriage, becoming parents to six children. Bose died on January 4, 1929, just 11 months before the death of Goodnight, and was buried near his old friend, Oliver Loving, in Weatherford's Greenwood Cemetery. 

When Goodnight was told of his death, he stated that he trusted Bose Ikard "farther than any living man. He was my detective, my banker, and everything else in Colorado, New Mexico and any other wild country I was in." Goodnight purchased a granit marker for Bose's grave and had it inscribed with an epitaph for his old friend - "Bose Ikard served with me four years on the Goodnight-Loving trail, never shirked a duty or disobeyed an order, rode with me in many stampedes, participated in three engagements with the Commanches, splendid behavior. - C. Goodnight" High praise indeed from a man of Charles Goodnight's stature.

The fictional characters Augustus McCrae, Woodrow Call and their right-hand man Joshua Deets in the award-winning book Lonesome Dove by Larry McMurtry and the mini-series by the same name (nominated for 18 awards and winner of 7 Emmys and 2 Golden Globes) was modeled after these three uncommon men; Oliver Loving, Charles Goodnight, and Bose Ikard.  
Bose Ikard grave marker

Post Card from Shamrock, Texas

 If you have ever wanted to kiss the Blarney Stone, but haven't because you can't afford an expensive trip to Ireland, Texas has you covered. The town of Shamrock is located in the Panhandle of Texas, just across the border from Oklahoma. In 1890, mail in the area was served by George and Nora Nickel in a dugout on their property. George's Irish mother had often told him to depend on a shamrock to bring him good luck so that's what he named the town. Shamrock loves its Irish heritage so much that in 1959, city leaders managed to buy an actual  piece of the lucky rock from Cork, Ireland's Blarney Castle. 

When the rock was delivered with the authentication papers, they embedded it into a theft-proof concrete pedestal, exposed for anyone who wanted kiss it. Why would anyone want to put their lips to a rock that has now had thousands of other people's lips touch it? Legend has it that when you kiss the Blarney Stone, you will be given the gift of eloquence and persuasiveness. 

Set in an upper wall of Blarney Castle, constructed in 1446 by Dermot McCarthy, King of Munster, the stone, according to popular legend, was originally the stone of Jacob from the Book of Genesis. It was acquired during the Crusades and brought to Ireland. In 1558, Queen Elizabeth 1 decided she wanted the magnificent Blarney Castle (then known as the McCarthy castle) for her own. She sent the Earle of Leicester to seize it, but Cormac McCarthy, the head of the family, had the gift of gab and was so eloquent that he managed to keep stalling the process of turning over his castle to the Queen. The queen became so exasperated by the earl's reports about the lack of progress that she said his reports were all "Blarney." The castle was never turned over to the queen and has since been known as the Blarney Castle. Kissing the Blarney Stone will impart this gift of gab to the kisser.

Today, Shamrock's piece of the Blarney Stone sits in it's pedestal in a small park surrounded by older houses. Unless you intentionally go there to see it and actually walk into the park to find it, you most probably would pay no notice to it. The day I visited, the park was empty except for one little boy who intently watched me as he was slowly swinging back and forth on the old swing set. I took a few pictures of the stone which, apparently bored him so much that he left and walked into a nearby house. Just me and the stone so yes, after wiping it down with a Clorox wipe I retrieved from my truck, I bent over and gave that rock a quick little kiss. I don't think it gave me the rumored gift of gab, but my wife and friends might disagree.

Shamrock slowly grew, especially in the 1920's when oil and gas were discovered in the area. In 1936, the U-Drop Inn was built at the corner of Route 66 and Route 83. It did a booming business as it was the only café within 100 miles of Shamrock. It was considered one of the most beautiful buildings on Route 66, but when the road was decommissioned, it was abandoned and fell into disrepair. In 1997, however, the crumbling building was placed on the National Register of Historic Places and in 1999, the First National Bank of Shamrock purchased it and donated the structure to the city. The city then received a $1.7 million grant from the federal government and a firm specializing in restoring historical buildings was commissioned to bring it back to its former glory. The firm did an excellent job and today it houses a visitor center, a museum, and a gift center as well the city's Chamber of Commerce. It has become an iconic "must stop" for thousands of old Route 66 travelers and is probably most famous for being the inspiration for Ramone's Body Shop in the 2006 movie, "Cars."

Shamrock has never been very big though. Even at its peak there were only 3,778 residents. When Route 66 and the city was bypassed by the construction of I-40, business declined and the population fell to to its current 1,910. It swells considerably however, during its annual St. Patrick's Day Celebration weekend. Held every year since 1938 (except during WW II), the festival marks the end of its "Irish Donegal Beard-growing" contest. Each contestant must provide photographic proof of a stubble-free face as of January 1st. The men then grow as much beard as they can before St. Patrick's Day. Adult males opting not to participate must buy a $5 shaving permit or risk being thrown in jail during the festival! In addition to announcing the year's Ms. Shamrock, activities include a banquet, parade, Irish stew cook-off, antique car show, carnival, arts & crafts, a bull buck-out and more. And a good time is had by all in this little Irish town in Texas.

If you want to learn more about other states Irish traditions, check out my daughters blog post, The Ultimate Guide To The World’s Shortest St. Patrick’s Day Parade in Hot Springs, Arkansas.

The Civil War's Tallest Soldier

(Historical Photo)
Henry Clay Thruston was born on May 4, 1830 in Greenville, South Carolina. He grew to 7 feet, 7 ½ inches by the time he was 19. Henry was the youngest of 5 brothers, all of whom were over 6 feet tall. His parents moved the family to Missouri soon after he was born and except for the notoriety of the boys being so tall, they lived a quiet, uneventful life. In 1850, Henry moved to California to try his hand at gold mining, but soon came back home to Missouri where, at age 23, he married Mary Thruston, a distant cousin. He began traveling with the P.T. Barnum show where he was billed as “The Missouri Giant” or, while traveling through Texas, “The Texas Giant” and “The Tallest Man in the World.” While touring in the south, he would lead the circus parade wearing a large “Stars and Bars” flag draped around his shoulders, but when the circus was in the northern states, he dressed as “Uncle Sam” and wore the “Old Glory” flag.

By the time the Civil War broke out, Henry and Mary had four children. When Union General Lyons invaded Missouri in February 1861, he broke up the State Legislature and drove the Governor, Claiborne F. Jackson, from the Capitol. He also took prisoners a company of State Guards in St. Louis, shot down women and children in the streets, and proclaimed that “the blood of women and children should run as water” before Missouri should go out of the Union. The Thruston family held strong views regarding state’s rights and upon the actions of General Lyons and his troops, Henry and two of his brothers joined the Morgan County Rangers, a unit of the Missouri State Guards. Henry remained with the State Guards, participating in several small battles until after the battle of Pea Ridge where his well-loved nephew, Joe Thurston, was killed. Henry then quit the State Guards and joined the Confederate Army, serving as a private under Col. John Q. Burbridge in the 4th Missouri Cavalry.

One day, Henry and a small group of soldiers were far in front of the Rebel lines serving as scouts when they came upon a farmhouse. As they approached, a young woman broke out of the house yelling, “Watch out! The woods are full of Yanks!” A major in charge of the Union troops came running out of the house and aimed his rifle at the woman. Before he could shoot however, Henry stood up, fired his rifle and mortally wounded the major. The remaining Union troops ran from the house and retreated into the woods. While giving aid to the wounded Yankee major, he kept saying, “A Reb standing upon a tree stump shot me.”

(Historical Photo)
On another occasion, the two sides were dug in just yards apart on either side of a pasture. At night, the men would shout at each other across the field. The Union men told the southerners they better watch out as they had a giant on their side and he would be coming to destroy them. The Rebs shouted back they had a giant as well and their giant was undoubtedly bigger. To settle the argument, the two sides agreed on a truce for the next day to settle who had the bigger giant. At the appointed hour, Yanks and Rebs left their guns behind, met in the middle of the pasture and the two “giants” were stood back-to-back.  The Union giant was only 6’10 1/2” and Henry, at 7’7 ½” was clearly taller. The Yanks had to admit the Reb giant was bigger. Afterward, for the rest of the hour of peace, the men swapped each other for food, tobacco, clothing items and gave each other news of what was happening elsewhere. It was reported that at least one set of brothers one Yank and one Reb, found each other and spent the hour in tears while hugging and talking about their parents and relatives back home. At the end of the hour, each side turned and went back to their lines. The rest of the day was peaceful, but early the next morning, a Union soldier shouted, “Duck your heads, Rebs! Here we come!” The Yankees then charged the Rebel lines and the death and horror of war resumed.

Henry survived that battle and several others as well. A few months later, he was standing in the second line of a formation for the colonel to “inspect the troops.” The command “Attention” was given. The colonel looked at the lines of men and shouted “Attention” himself, but when nobody moved, he drew his saber, ran straight at Thruston yelling, “By God, I will make you obey orders! Get off that stump now!” Henry said, “Sir, I’m not standing on a stump. I’m standing on the ground.” Getting close enough to see that Thruston was indeed just standing on the ground, the Colonel said, “My God, how the Yankees haven’t killed a target as big as you is unbelievable.”

 Later in the war, Henry was serving in the cavalry under Major-General Sterling Price who was raiding across Arkansas, Kansas and Missouri in what was called “Price’s Raid.” It was during this campaign in 1864 when, amazingly, a mini-ball grazed the top of his head. He later said, “It didn’t hurt much and only parted my hair.” It was at another battle in Arkansas in 1864 that Henry’s incredible luck ran out. He was seriously wounded in the side and was captured by Yankee forces. A Union doctor managed to remove the bullet and eventually, Henry made a full recovery. He remained a prisoner of war until being paroled in June 1865 after the war ended.

After the war, Thruston reunited with his family in Missouri and soon migrated southwest to Texas, stopping when he got to Titus County. He bought 100 acres east of Mount Vernon and spent most of the rest of his life farming and occasionally touring once again with Barnum and Bailey circus. While touring with the circus this time, he took to wearing a tall beaver hat, high-top boots and a long coat which made him look ten feet tall. Thousands of people came to see and talk with “The World’s Tallest Man.”

Henry’s wife Mary died on September 23, 1891. Several years later, in declining health, he moved in with his son Edward who lived in Mt. Vernon, Texas. Henry always attended the Confederate Reunions and was always the center of attention for everyone in attendance. Shortly after his return from the reunion in Memphis, Tennessee, the Civil War’s tallest soldier died on Friday, July 2, 1909. He was 79 years old. He is buried next to his wife and two of their sons in the old Edward’s Cemetery in Mt. Pleasant, Texas.

Henry Thruston home. Now restored
and serves as the Mt. Vernon
Visitor's Center.

Omar Locklear - Daredevil Extraordinaire

 
Omar Locklear, 1919
(historical photo)

In Greenwood Cemetery in Fort Worth is a nondescript grave with nothing to distinguish it from all the other graves. Well, except for the large Texas Historical marker next to it. Here lies Omar Leslie "Lock" Locklear. Few people know of him now, but during his short life, he was the world's greatest stuntman, a fearless daredevil, the man who invented wing-walking and the first to transfer from one plane to another while in flight.

Born in Greenville, Texas on October 28, 1891, he was raised in Ft. Worth after his parents moved there in the early 1900s. In 1911, Calbraith Rodgers landed his plane in a nearby field to clear a clogged fuel line. Locklear witnessed the landing, ran to meet Rodgers and to see the plane up close. From that point on, he was intensely fascinated with aviation and airplanes. 

"Lock," as he came to be called, joined the Army Air Corps in October 1917. He was such a gifted pilot that he was made a flight instructor in WWI. He was well-known for leaving the cockpit during flight and crawling along the wings or fuselage back to the tail section to make in-flight repairs when necessary. After the war ended in 1918, Omar happened to see a barnstorming air show and marveled at how the spectators cheered and gave money to the pilots and how the women were enamored of them. He also quickly realized his own regular flying exploits were much more impressive. 

He left the Army in early 1919 and along with two of his colleagues and a manager, acquired airplanes and formed their own flying show, "The Locklear Flying Circus." It was a huge success and with Locklear as the star, the men became wealthy. In addition to stunts such as wing-walking and doing headstands on the top wing of his Curtiss Jenny biplane, Omar perfected the death-defying stunts of jumping from one airplane to another and the "Dance of Death" in which he and another pilot in a different airplane would switch places while in mid-air.

(Historical photo)
The "Locklear Flying Circus" became such a hit that Hollywood came calling. Locklear moved to California and was hired to be a stuntman in movies. He soon was being billed as the foremost "aviation stuntman in the world." The first movie featuring Omar as the star was "The Great Air Robbery," a film about pilots flying air mail. In the movie, "Lock" performed his famous airplane-to-airplane transfer and a stunt where he transferred from a flying plane to a speeding automobile and then back to the plane moments before the car crashed. The film was a commercial success and he was soon hired to star in a second film, "The Skywayman," about an American ace battling against German pilots in World War I.

Filming began on June 11, 1920, and, until the final scene was recorded on August 2nd, there were problems. Two of Lock's stunts, one where a church steeple was toppled by his plane and another where he transferred from a flying plane to a speeding train, took a number of takes and almost ended in disaster. On the last scheduled day of filming, Omar was to be in a nighttime spin, pulling out to safety at the last second. The night before filming, Lock told his girlfriend, actress Viola Dana, that he had an uneasy feeling about the next day and gave her some of his personal possessions. The scene was originally scheduled to take place in the daytime with red filters on the camera lenses to simulate darkness, but Omar demanded he be allowed to perform the stunt at night for realism. 

(Historical photo)

Large studio arc lights were set up to illuminate Omar and his plane. The lights were set to turn off when he reached 1,000 feet so he would know where he was at and be able to recover from the downward spin. The dive toward an oil derrick was intended to make it appear in the movie that he crashed into the derrick. As Viola Dana, numerous spectators and the full film crew watched, Omar performed several preliminary aerial maneuvers with lit flares to simulate the plane being on fire. Lock then signaled he was ready to begin the spinning dive. For some reason, mechanical or human error, the bright lights did not go off as planned and remained on, blinding Omar and his long-time co-pilot, "Skeets" Elliot. Instead of correcting the spin at 1,000 feet, they started at 200 feet, not nearly enough time to be successful. The plane crashed nose-first into a sludge pool of oil next to the derrick and the lit flares caused an immediate explosion, killing both men instantly.

The crash so horrified Viola that she refused to get on an airplane for the next 25 years. With the entire film having been completed except for the night scene, the movie's studio, Fox, decided to cash in on the fatal crash and rushed the film's release. With advertising proclaiming "Every inch of film showing Locklear's spectacular and fatal last flight, his death-defying feats and a close-up of his spectacular crash to earth," the movie was released to theatres just a month later.

Omar Locklear's remains were brought back to Fort Worth's Greenwood Cemetery where "the world's foremost aviation daredevil" was laid to rest.