One Dusty Track

Route 66 – Giganticus Headicus

Route 66 through Aubrey Valley leading away
from Seligman, AZ.

Enjoyable as it was, we put Seligman behind us and kept heading west, always west. From Seligman to the next good-sized town, Kingman, is about 80 miles and gas stations are few along the way and expensive so if needed, you should fill up before driving this stretch.

After passing under the I-40 overpass, Route 66 crosses through Aubrey Valley and a few small communities and ghost towns while crossing the Hualapai Indian Reservation. Don’t be in a hurry; it’s a nice drive. The buttes and mesas landscape will remind you of almost every western movie Hollywood ever made. We passed through Peach Springs, the center of the reservation and on to the mostly deserted town of Valentine.

Route-66 through the southern part of the
Hualapai Reservation

In Valentine, there stands a large, 2-story red brick school-house that was built in 1901. It was the school for the local Indian children and served as a boarding school for Apache, Hopi, Navajo, Papago, Havasupai, and Mohave children who were often forcibly taken from their parents and homes and taught to be white. A different day school building was built for the local white children. The Indian school closed in 1937 for a short time, but was re-opened and served until finally being closed in 1969. It wasn’t one of America’s finer moments.

Until 1990, Valentine had a small contract post office which would receive thousands of Valentine cards each year from people who wanted their cards re-mailed with the heart-shaped postmark used by Jacqueline Grigg, the lady who ran the post office. That stopped on August 15, 1990 when a man robbed the post office and shot Jacqueline. He removed the tags from the motorcycle he had been riding, hid it behind the building and stole Mrs. Grigg’s yellow 1979 Ford station wagon. He drove off with a little cash and a few blank money orders, leaving Jacqueline to die. Two days later, the 19-year-old man from Tennessee drove the yellow Ford into the parking lot of a Laguna Beach, California police station and confessed the murder to a city employee. A policeman who happened to be walking by heard the conversation and took the murderer into custody. The following week, Jacqueline’s grief-stricken husband bulldozed the blood-stained Valentine post office and left town never to be heard from again.

Giganticus Headicus on Route 66

About 66 miles from Seligman, at the corner where Antares Road meets Route 66 (N 35° 25.137 W 113° 48.481) is Giganticus Headicus, a 14-foot tall wood and stucco Polynesian Tiki head thing. It sits next to a convenience store at the Kozy Corner Trailer Court. It is one of those off-beat things you sometimes run across during a road trip; so off-beat that it has almost become legendary. It was built in 2004 by Gregg Arnold so it is not a nostalgia remnant of the Mother Road, but in less than 10 years, it has become firmly associated with taking a Route 66 road trip. People from all over the world stop here to get their picture taken in front of Giganticus Headicus. It’s just kinda cool.

The author, like many other people, just had to get his picture
taken with Giganticus Headicus!

Shortly after leaving Giganticus Headicus is the town of Valle Vista. No reason to stop here, at least not for this road trip’s purposes, as this is a town built around a golf course in 1972 as I-40 was being built. The only reason for note is because it is the newest community on Route 66.

After a nice drive of 80 miles west out of Seligman is the good-sized town of Kingman, birthplace of Andy Devine. With about 28,000 residents itself and another 38,000 or so living in the close by Butler and Golden Valley communities, there are a number of motels, eating places and service stations to choose from. If nothing else, you should top off your gas tank here as this is the last place to get “cheaper” gas; at least cheaper than California. From here, we’ll be heading over some rather remote sections to Oatman and the California state line.

Go to the first Route 66 entry here.

Or go to the first entry of each state:

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The Angel of Route 66

The famous Snow Cap Drive-in in Seligman, AZ.

In 1953, a resident of Seligman named Juan Delgadillo built right on Route 66 a drive-in diner he named The Snow Cap Drive-in. Not having much money, he built the place himself using scrap lumber from the nearby railroad yard. To advertise his diner, Juan cut off the top of a 1936 Chevrolet and outfitted it with painted writing, horns, brightly colored Christmas decorations and a Christmas tree sticking up out of the trunk. He drove it up and down Route 66 and when he wasn't driving it, he parked it in front of his little scrap-lumber diner. It wasn't long before business took off and The Snow Cap Drive-in has become such a success that it is now known around the world as a famous icon of Route 66.

Juan's 1936 Chevy that he cut the top off and drove up
and down Route 66 and in parades to advertise
his quirky little establishment.

Juan had a great sense of humor which he built into the diner and even the menu which features "cheeseburgers with cheese," "hamburgers without ham," and "dead chicken sandwiches." The napkins and straws are advertised as "slightly used." The door leading into the diner has 2 doorknobs - one on each side. A glass door is locked with no doorknob and no way to unlock it - and then you notice there is no glass in the door so you can step right through. "Juan's Garden" is located in the rear - a collection of old cars, phone booths, signs, and oddly intriguing odds & ends.

Airplanes, tin-can robots, and assorted other interesting
items adorn the Snow Cap grounds.

Juan always had a lot of fun in life and he brought that same spirit to his business. Unfortunately for the rest of the world, Juan Delgadillo passed away on June 2, 2004. His son John and daughter Cecilia now operate the business which continues to draw large numbers of visitors to this small town which seems to be wonderfully caught in a time warp. The business cards from all over the world which line the walls around the Snow Cap's counter area are a testament to the success of one man's vision, hard work, and spirit.

Juan's brother, Angel, was born in Seligman in a house on Route 66 in 1927. In 1947, Angel graduated from Seligman high school and soon opened a small barbershop in town right on the historic highway just a very short distance away from where his brother would later open his Snow Cap Drive-in. A few years later, he and his wife built on to the little barbershop building and opened the Route 66 Souvenir Shop. Some years ago, Angel retired from being a barber, but his wife Vilma and he still own the souvenir store and occasionally, Angel comes in to meet and greet visitors, pose for pictures, and give his signature to those who ask.

Angel's Barber Shop

By 1985, Route 66 was delisted as a highway from the U.S. Highway System and the railroad had closed the station and ceased operations. Angel, a man who had grown up on Route 66 and lived and worked on the old road for almost 60 years wasn't willing to see his town die like so many other towns bypassed by the interstate. He enlisted the help of a few friends and founded the Historic Route 66 Association of Arizona. He tirelessly extolled the virtues of the road and initiated numerous events, including the acclaimed Arizona Fun Run, to help bring attention to the fading status of America's Main Street. Eventually, Route 66 associations were founded in all six states the road goes through and there are now Route 66 associations all around the world. Now almost 86 years old, with every one of them on the historic road, to say Angel has been a witness to Route 66 is a heck of an understatement. He has been interviewed by publications, TV stations, and book authors more than 200 times and is at least mentioned in most every Route 66 book. He has been given titles of "The Mayor of Route 66," "The Father of The Mother Road," "The Guardian Angel of Route 66," and "The Ambassador."

John Lasseter interviewed him for the 2006 movie Cars while he was researching the history of Route 66. Angel told him how when the interstate was opened, traffic in the town virtually disappeared overnight. In the movie, Sally Carrera, the female Porsche character, told this story in a 3 1/2 minute monologue on the history of Radiator Springs, the fictional town which was loosely based on Seligman.

Angel & Vilma's Route 66 Gift Shop.

The day we stopped in Seligman, I became one of the lucky ones who got to meet Angel in person, talk to him for a while, get a picture and get his autograph on a postcard. He was very friendly and open, easy to approach. I had heard of him, but never expected that I would actually get to meet him. He asked me where we were from, were we doing the whole Route 66 or just a portion of it. I felt like I was in the presence of living, breathing history. We had a wonderful little discussion, back and forth for a good 5 minutes and I was sincerely enjoying his company. We were standing together off to the side inside his store, just the two of us, and he was just starting to tell me a story about "something pretty funny" that happened on the road in front of his store at some time in the past, when a small bus of Japanese tourists pulled up and immediately after entering the store, about a dozen of them recognized Angel right away and started smiling and pointing at him. They made a bee-line straight for us with every one of their camera's clicking away. Angel smiled his big smile and his eyes took on even more of a twinkle as he looked around at each of them. He turned to me, placed his hand on my shoulder and said, "I better talk to these folks for a while. After all these years and I'm still surprised by all the attention people give me. I'll save my story for next time. Nice to meet you and thanks for stopping by!"

I went back to shopping for a refrigerator magnet and other souvenirs that I couldn't live without. For such a small store, it sure has a lot of stuff in it. I found a really cool looking magnet, a t-shirt and a couple of other items to bring back home with me. After paying for my goodies, I turned around to see if Angel was still there, but only a couple of the Japanese were still milling around and he was nowhere to be seen.

Thank you, Mr. Delgadillo for all you've done for us Route 66 fans. Take care and don't forget, you owe me a story!

Which door knob do you pull to open
the door to enter the Snow Cap?

Interesting stuff behind the Snow Cap in
Juan's Garden..

Be careful of the low-hanging overhead!

Take your time and read all of the posts in the
Snow Cap windows.

Go to the first Route 66 entry here.

Or go to the first entry of each state:

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Route 66 - Seligman & The Roadkill Cafe

I-40 between Williams and Seligman, AZ.

West of Williams, the land rather quickly goes from forested hills to flat and open with a low mountain range in the distance. Just past I-40's exit 139 begins 160 miles of Route 66, the longest single length of Route 66 still in use today. About 38 miles past Williams is Seligman, the town on which "Radiator Springs" from the movie Cars was based and probably the most fun and interesting community we came across during our whole Mother Road trip.

Town sign as you come into Seligman

Perhaps no other town on the route harks back to the glory days of Route 66, America's Main Street, more than Seligman. When the road came through in the late 1920's, tourist traffic, along with the railroad station in town, became the main source of income. On September 22, 1978 though, I-40 opened, bypassing Seligman and the town's roads became almost deserted over-night. In 1985, the railroad closed the station and the little community was on the verge of becoming a memory and just another ghost killed by the interstate.

I was sorry we had eaten lunch in Williams just before we
arrived here. We just had a coke this time.

Today though, Seligman is still alive and doing well on tourist business. Coming into town is the famous Roadkill Cafe. Having already eaten lunch in Williams an hour earlier, Youngest-daughter and I didn't get to partake of what is consistently rated as really good steaks and hamburgers. Even though we were not hungry, the food sure smelled good. There are so many good places to eat along the route that you just can't eat at all of them in one trip! This place is definitely on our list for next time though. Who could resist a menu which lists Splatter Platter, Swirl of Squirrel, Big Bagged Stag, and Highway Hash? Where the waitress may tempt you with, "It was real dark last night and all the animals are in heat and crossing the road so we have a full menu today. Would you like something to drink while you wait for the Chef's Surprise?" Um, no thank you, not this time. Could we just get a coke? We'll catch it next time.

The Aztec Motel

If you need a good place to spend the night at a reasonable price, the Aztec Motel in the middle of town is strongly recommended. In addition to the friendly staff and comfortable rooms, the location can't be beat for spending the day walking around all of the shops and stores.

So after the interstate bypassed it and the railroad stopped stopping in town, how did this place manage to survive? The difference in Seligman and other towns who are now nothing more than ruins and memories is that Seligman had the Delgadillo brothers, Angel and Juan. Just down the road from the Roadkill Cafe is the internationally famous Snow Cap Drive-in, built by Juan in 1953, and the equally famous Angel & Vilma's Original Route 66 Gift Shop. Their stories are very interesting and worthy of a full blog entry all by themselves so that will be covered next week..