Route 66 - Rolla to Lebanon

The Rolla, Missouri Hampton Inn provided us with a safe and comfortable night's rest. We checked in just as they were bringing out another platter of cookies fresh from the oven. Yummy! In a change from the usual Hampton Inn, the A/C wasn't limited to not go below 74 so we were able to get a good night's rest. I still don't understand why Hilton properties always have those huge comforters on the bed. Those things weigh about 25 pounds and would keep you warm at the North Pole! I always just pull the darn thing off and ask for a blanket at the front desk. This location had 2 blankets wrapped in plastic on the shelf in the closet so extra points! Fast, free wi-fi, decent quality toilet paper, nice free breakfast in the morning and fresh coffee and cookies all evening. This place gets 2 thumbs up from us!

The oldest trading post in Missouri.
Rolling out of Rolla the next morning at 7:30, our first stop was just a couple of blocks down the road at the Totem Pole Trading Post. Open since 1933 and located at 1413 Martin Springs (N37 56 32.6 W091 47 33.6), it has seen thousands of Route 66 travelers and celebrities such as Buck Owens, Janie Fricke, Tony Orlando, and the Harlem Globetrotters (who had to duck due to the post's low ceilings) stop for the clean restrooms, road snacks, soda's (including Route 66 Root Beer), sugar-cured ham sold in burlap bags, fuel, beer and Ozarks souvenirs. The place was closed while we were there so we didn't get to browse around inside, but it looked interesting through the windows.

4-lane section of Route 66. Bridge over the
Big Piney River.
Continuing through Missouri, Route 66 skirts the edges of the Mark Twain National Forest, through Hooker Cut, and over the Big Piney River and the infamous Devil's Elbow. Hooker's Cut is a section of the road which was deeply cut out of solid rock. The now ghost town it was named after, Hooker, was itself named after Union General Joseph Hooker, (a reputed lover of the bottle and the ladies) who during the Civil War, maintained a stable of professional "fallen doves" that followed his army and serviced the soldiers to keep up their morale. Just after this comes Devil's Elbow, a severe bend in the Big Piney River where lumberjacks who constantly fought log jams claimed the huge boulder which caused the river to bend must have been put there by the devil himself. This piece of the Mother Road, built in 1941 - 1945 for World War II use, is one of the few 4-lane sections not just in Missouri, but the full distance.

A "rescued" turtle safely on the other side
of the road.
Next to the bridge pictured above, we came across the first of what would soon be dozens of turtles crossing the road over the next 10 miles. It was very strange. We would no sooner get past one then there would be another. Several times we saw two just a few yards apart. Youngest-daughter wanted to stop every time we saw one so she could carry it to its desired side of the road before a car could send it to turtle heaven, but after the first couple, I wouldn't stop because we would have spent several days performing turtle rescue. Besides, it wasn't like there was an abundance of traffic along this stretch so the turtles would just have to hope for good luck and a clear road. No turtles were harmed in our traverse between Hooker and Lebanon!

Route 66 icon - Munger Moss Motel.
Lebanon, Missouri was named for Lebanon, Tennessee, which was the original home of most of the town's settlers. On the east side of town is the Munger Moss Motel. It has a grand tradition of serving Route 66 roadies. Originally, there was a small barbecue cafe which was operated by Mr. & Mrs. Munger at Devil's Elbow. Mr. Munger passed on and Nellie Munger ran the place by herself until eventually getting remarried to Emmet Moss. The name of the cafe then became Munger Moss Barbeque. A few years later, the Moss' retired and sold the cafe to the Hudson's. When Route 66 was realigned and the cafe was no longer on the main road, they closed the cafe and opened the motel on the route in Lebanon. When it opened in 1946, there were 14 "modern" cabins. Over the next few years, carports were constructed between the cabins, then the carports were enclosed and the cabins were joined together. By the late 60's though, the old girl was showing her age. In 1971, Bob & Ramona Lehman bought the motel and renovated and modernized every room. Most of the rooms are now decorated in Route 66 themes. It's not unusual for it to be filled so call ahead if you plan to stay a night or two.

Lebanon was a nice little town with a great library, the Lebanon-Laclede County Library, which holds a wonderful collection of publications documenting the development of Route 66 from the beginning. Youngest-daughter and I stopped at a convenience store to restock our road food and gas up the truck and then we were off again, headed to Springfield and a story about Wild Bill Hickok.

Go to the first Route 66 entry here.
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Route 66 - Meramec Caverns

Meramec Caverns Entrance
We arrived in Stanton, Missouri about 5:15 in the afternoon, just in time to buy tickets for the last tour of the caverns that day. The price surprised me a bit - $34 for the 2 of us. I was expecting around $20 - $25, but ok, pay it and hope you feel it's worth it at the end.

Meramec Caverns was opened to the public as a tourist attraction in 1935, but it has been forming for over 400 million years and Pre-Columbian Native American artifacts have been found inside the cave so humans have known about it for a really long time. During the civil war, the Yankees had a powder mill set up inside the cave from 1862 until 1864 when a band of Confederate guerrillas found and destroyed it. One of the members of the guerrillas was Jesse James. He would later put his experience in the cave to good use.

The Stage Curtain - a 70-foot high, 60-foot
wide 35-foot thick mineral deposit, one of the
largest in the world.
In the early 1870's Jesse and his gang used the caverns as a hideout. On one occasion, after a bank robbery, the sheriff and a posse trailed Jesse and his men into the cave. They camped at the mouth of the cave for 3 days, but when they finally went inside, they found Jesse had discovered another way out by swimming under water into another room which eventually led to a small, hidden opening to the outside. He and his gang had escaped with the stolen loot. They left behind a wooden chest, a Civil War cavalry sabre, and several guns.

In the 1930s, a cave enthusiast, Lester Dill, leased the cave from the owner, Charley Rueppele, with an option to buy it. Along with his partner, Ed Schuler, they built the access road and entrance to the cave, renamed it "Meramec Caverns ” and opened it to the public in 1935.

The Stage Curtain lit up during the light and
music show at the end of the tour.
Dill uncovered miles of new passages and spectacular views and began to market the cave to the many travelers of Route 66. Marketing efforts included the use of "bumper signs” before the advent of "bumper stickers,” as well as painting the sides and roofs of barns all along Route 66. Soon, the cave became known as one of the most famous stops along the Mother Road.

Youngest-daughter really enjoyed the tour and I thought it was pretty cool also. I didn't much care for the young "Ranger" tour guide, a teenage nerd given a uniform and flashlight and with the power invested in him by those items, the self-importance wherewithal to tell a group of adults in an overly stern voice to "follow me," "hurry up," "don't fall behind" and "stop here and listen up!" Condescending little twerp. But that doesn't take away from the cavern itself, which was interesting. Was it worth $34? Close enough that I didn't feel cheated afterwards. And now Youngest-daughter and I can say we've been to Meramec Caverns!

In the souvenir store after the tour -
Youngest-daughter doing one of her
most favorite things - shopping!
As we emerged and walked out to the parking lot, we saw several police cars, firetrucks and an ambulance parked along the river right behind our truck. There were a lot of people in swimsuits just kind of milling around so we walked over and asked one what was going on. Apparently, while we were touring the cave, somebody had drowned and the rescue squad was dragging the river for the body.

After all the walking in the cave we had done, my broken toe was barking at me and besides, I didn't particularly want to stand around ghoulishly waiting to see some unfortunate person be dragged out of the river (may they RIP).  No need for my daughter to see such a thing if she doesn't have too either, so with the sun setting behind the hills and both of us in a somber, contemplative mood, we got in the truck, maneuvered around the emergency vehicles and headed toward a Hampton Inn in Rolla, Missouri.

 

Go to the first Route 66 entry here.
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Route 66 - Hello Missouri!

continued from previous post.

The Gateway Arch in St. Louis
After crossing over the Mississippi River on the I-270 bridge, we followed the signs up a hill to the Missouri Welcome Center just outside St. Louis. It was so hot that just walking 100 feet from the parking lot to the entrance made us appreciate the cool air inside. Staffed by a couple of very nice and knowledgeable folks, they happily provided us with a road map of Missouri and printed directions to the Arch. I noticed a full pot of coffee beside the door with a sign saying, "Free Coffee." We spent about 10 minutes reading brochures and looking around and I noted nobody took them up on their hot coffee offer. When it's close to 100 degrees, evidently even the most die-hard coffee drinker would rather have something else, free or not!

Following the instructions given us by the visitor center staff, we took a serpentine route which roughly followed several of the paths taken by Route 66 at various times in history. Along the way we passed through areas that had obviously seen better days and I would be cautious about driving around those area's after dark, but it wasn't as bad as parts of Chicago that we had driven through. We saw the Arch several miles before actually getting there and after we arrived, we discovered that road signs as to where to park were either non-existent or hard to follow. It's a very large area, but after a few minutes, we found a parking garage that only charged $6. All of the inside (shaded!) spots were taken so we had to park on the upper level in that bright sun. We could see the top of the Arch so we followed a line of people into the National Expansion Memorial Park through a large stand of trees providing welcome shade.

Youngest-daughter below the Arch as the
clouds started rolling in.
The Arch itself is located on 4 or 5 open acres of mowed grass. The 630-foot tall structure is much larger than indicated by the numerous pictures I had seen of it. The thing is huge! When we first arrived, the day was blinding bright, but as we walked around, clouds quickly moved in. The heat didn't go down any and the humidity went higher. Soon, even Youngest-daughter said she was ready to get back to the car to get out of the heat - this from a 13-year-old who, like most teenagers, doesn't seem to feel heat or cold the way grownups do.

Let's go back about 4 weeks. I was working in my home office, barefoot, when I heard it start to rain. I decided I needed a break anyway so I walked across the room to the window to check out the clouds. Next to the window is a small table where I keep genealogy records, research material and photography stuff to work on when I get the chance. The table has been in that same exact spot for 3 years so it's not like I didn't know it was there. I can't explain it, just one of those stupid "how in the hell did that happen?" moments. I stubbed 2 of my toes on one of the table legs. Not just a little stub, I kicked the damn thing! The pain shot up my foot, into my ankle and straight to the pain center. I crumbled to the ground loudly saying words I would not want my daughter to know the meaning of. The toe next to my pinkie toe was bent at a weird angle. The bottom of it was now on the side. No doubt about it, toe broke.

Now, back to the day at the Arch. I told you about my toe so you'll understand what happened next. I had finally stopped limping and my toe was almost back to it's normal pink color rather than the angry black and blue it had been for weeks, but it was still tender. We decided to head back to the car to get out of the heat so we walked across the open grassy area until we were standing directly under the arch. I stopped and aimed my camera straight up to take what I thought would be an interesting shot. As I was standing there taking my picture, minding my own business, all of a sudden I heard my daughter shout "Daddy!" and I heard a male voice a few yards behind me shout, "Look out!" I had no idea what danger I was in or where it was coming from, but survival instinct kicked in and I quickly ducked my head and brought down the camera as I started to duck down. It was a good thing I did as a rather large guy came down from the sky, his elbow brushing the top of my head, his body bumping into my side and the heel of his foot crashing down full force on my poor broken toe. He was actually a young man who, with a group of other college-age people, were playing some kind of game with a whirly-bird do-hicky. It was like a dart kind of thing that they would throw in the air and then it would float down on helicopter blades. Evidently he was running to catch it, was watching it rather than where he was going, and just happened to jump up to grab it as he came up behind me. He was a nice kid, apologized several times, kept calling me sir and I knew it had been an accident so I told him it was ok, don't worry about it. But my toe was screaming it was not ok.

Youngest-daughter and I made our way over to a bench and sat down for a while, waiting for my toe to stop screaming. After a while, I limped my way back to the car. My toe was already starting to swell and turn red. 5 acres of open space and the guy comes down on the few inches of ground my foot covered! Time to get out of the big city.

Ted Drewes Frozen Custard in St. Louis
We got on Route 66 again, on Gravois Avenue to 6726 Chippewa Street where we stopped at Ted Drewes Frozen Custard.  Locals and Route 66 travelers have been purchasing frozen treats at this site since 1941. Try the concrete milkshake.

Finally leaving St. Louis, we entered a geographic region of forested hills with deep cuts and steep grades. For me, it was a great change from the city we had just escaped from. Our next stop was in Eureka at the Route 66 State Park. Situated on the banks of the Meramec River, it is located on the site of the former community of Times Beach. Back in the 1920's, the town of Times Beach was founded and developed as a vacation spot for St. Louis residents. By the 1970's, the community was showing its age and the population had changed to lower income residents. The roads had never been paved and the dust was annoying so the town contracted with a small company to spray the streets with oil. The only problem was the cheap oil the 1-man operation used was, unknown to him, contaminated with dioxin, exposing everyone in the town to a serious dose of the toxic substance. In the early 1980's, the government admitted there was a big problem in Times Beach and bought the entire town from its residents. Everyone was gone by 1985, and by 1992, all of the town's buildings except one were torn down. A few years later, an incinerator was built and the top 6 inches of dirt was scraped off and sanitized.

Today, the area is perfectly safe and that 1 building that survived is now the Route 66 State Park Visitor Center which houses memorabilia and interprets the environmental success story of the former community.

Restored neon sign from a Route 66 business.




Route 66 Harley Davidson in the visitor center.
Sure made me want to do Route 66 on a bike!
 
Following the Mother Road into Pacific, a town nearly wiped out by a battle there during the Civil War, we stopped at Monroe's 66 Diner at 409 E. Osage. Opened in the early 1940's, it served Route 66 travelers until about 2005 when it closed. Known for it's stone front attached to a Quonset Hut structure, the closing was a cause for mourning among long-time patrons. However, it re-opened in early May, 2012, just a couple of weeks before we stopped there. It now is named The Down South Café and serves American food as well as Cajun and Creole - po'boy sandwiches, gumbo, beignets, etouffe, and fried alligator. We would have eaten there, but it was Sunday and they evidently are closed on Sunday's so I can't testify as to the quality of the food. Looking through the windows, we could see the inside has been decorated with Route 66 décor and we had fun with the alligator on the sign in front.

Monroe's diner - the famous stone front and
Quonset Hut rear.
It was starting to get a little late in the afternoon, but we made our way a few miles on down to the town of Villa Ridge and the Tri-County Restaurant and Truck Stop, another famous Route 66 establishment we had heard about.  Pulling into the parking lot, we were disappointed again as it was closed due to construction. Giving up on getting a sit-down meal and needing gas for the truck, we stopped at the next gas station/convenience store, fed the truck (18 gallons at almost $4 per gallon - ouch!) and grabbed some road food to munch on as we made our way to the town of Staunton and a stop at the Meramec Caverns.

Fried Alligator is on the menu now so the rubber
alligator on the sign in front is a nice touch!

Go to the first Route 66 entry here.
Or go to the first entry of each state: